In this guide
- Why the usual advice fails
- The address problem
- What it actually costs
- Satellite: the default
- HughesNet and Viasat: skip
- Cellular: test it first
- Fixed wireless: best deal
- Fiber, cable and DSL
- Powering the thing you just bought
- Installing before the deed
- How to test before you commit
- Go claim your spot
- Frequently Asked Questions
Why the usual internet advice fails on raw land
You've got the parcel picked out. Forty minutes of gravel, a stand of oak at the back, and a spot you already know is where the camper goes. Then somebody asks how you're going to get online out there, and you don't have an answer.
So you search "rural internet" and you get a wall of comparison sites ranking providers by speed and price. Every one of them starts by asking for your street address.
That's where it falls apart. You've got a parcel. Maybe a gate, maybe a two-track, maybe a corner pin and a county road a half mile off. No address, no meter, no structure. The tool that was supposed to tell you what's available just told you it can't find your house, because there isn't one.
Weekend camper, off-gridder, homesteader building slow, guy who just wants to stream a ballgame from a folding chair? You're all asking the same question, and it isn't "which provider is fastest." It's "what can I actually get out there, and what's it going to take." Let me give it to you plain.
The address problem nobody warns you about
Almost every internet provider qualifies service by address. Type in coordinates and the order form stops cold.
This catches people. They close on a parcel, call the provider that covers the area, and find out they can't order service because the property has no recognized address in the system. The land is fine. The paperwork isn't there yet.
Getting a 911 address assigned through the county is usually straightforward and usually free, and it's worth starting early because it unlocks more than internet. We wrote the whole process up in getting an address for raw land, and if you're still shopping and the listing has no address at all, finding property with no address covers how to pin down what you're actually looking at.
Two exceptions worth knowing. Satellite doesn't care about your address, because the dish only needs sky. Cellular doesn't either, because you're buying a device, not a service line. Those are the two that work on day one, which is a big part of why they're the answer for most parcels.
What it actually costs
Prices move. These are the ranges as of September 2026, and they are the shape of the thing rather than a quote for your address. The two satellite rows come straight off the providers' own pages. Cellular and fixed wireless price by carrier and by county, so read those two as the middle of a wide band. Check current pricing before you buy anything.
| Option | Hardware | Monthly | Realistic speed | Works with no address? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Satellite, low-orbit (Starlink) | $349 | $55 to $175 | 50 to 150 Mbps typical | Yes |
| Satellite, geostationary (HughesNet, Viasat) | Leased, plus install | $40 to $125 | 25 to 150 Mbps | No, needs an installed fixed location |
| Cellular hotspot or home internet | $0 to $300 | $35 to $110 | 10 to 100 Mbps | Yes |
| Fixed wireless (local WISP) | $0 to $300 install | $50 to $100 | 25 to 100 Mbps | Usually, ask |
| Fiber | Varies, often free install | $50 to $90 | 300 Mbps and up | No |
| DSL | $0 to $100 | $40 to $70 | 1 to 25 Mbps | No |
The pattern holds across every state we sell in: the options that need nothing from the ground cost more per month, and the ones that need infrastructure cost less but usually aren't there. That tradeoff is the whole decision.
If you're budgeting the bigger picture, internet is one line on a longer list. What utilities actually cost on rural land walks through the rest of it.
Satellite: the default answer for most parcels
Low-orbit satellite changed this question completely. Starlink is the one most buyers end up on, and it's the first thing I'd look at for a parcel with no infrastructure.
What makes it work: it needs a clear view of sky and nothing else. No address, no line of sight to a tower, no cable in the ground. You can set the dish on a tripod, point it up, and be online the same afternoon.
What actually stops people:
Trees. This is the real one. The dish needs an unobstructed view of a wide patch of sky, and a heavily wooded parcel will drop the connection every time a satellite passes behind a branch. Buyers on open ground in Arizona or New Mexico rarely have a problem. Buyers under timber in Oregon or the Arkansas Ozarks sometimes have to clear a sight line or get the dish up on a mast.
Power draw. Starlink's spec sheet for the current standard dish puts it at 75 to 100 watts on average. Run that around the clock and you're near two kilowatt-hours a day, which is a real number when you're sizing a solar setup rather than plugging into a wall. Worth knowing if you're reading an older guide: the previous dish drew 50 to 75 watts, so the number went up with the new hardware, not down. More on that below.
Cost. It's the most expensive monthly option on the list. You're paying for the fact that it works anywhere.
Here's how the plans actually shake out. The kit runs $349. Residential service comes in three tiers: $55 a month for 100 Mbps, $85 for 200, and $130 for the Max plan. Roam, the portable version, starts at $55 for 100 GB and runs to $175 for unlimited. You'll see $165 quoted for Roam unlimited all over the place, including on Starlink's own broadband label, which hasn't caught up. The order page is the number that counts.
The part that matters most for a parcel you don't live on full time: the standard plan has no contract and no early termination fee, and you can stop it any month. There's also a Standby Mode that keeps the account alive at low speed between visits. Starlink publishes the feature but not the price, only that it's a small monthly fee, so get the number at signup rather than from an article. If you're out there six weekends a year, paying something small in the off months instead of a full plan is the difference between this penciling out and not. One footnote on “no contract”: there is an optional 12 or 24 month commitment that gets you the kit free, and changing out of that one costs $249 or $325.
30 days
To send it back
Covers a blocked sky view
25-50 ms
Typical latency
Against 750 for geostationary
75-100 W
Continuous draw
Close to 2 kWh a day
HughesNet and Viasat: the satellite option to skip
If you've seen satellite internet advertised, there's a good chance it was one of these two. They're the old guard, and they run on a completely different principle than Starlink does. Their satellites sit in geostationary orbit, roughly 22,000 miles up. Starlink's sit around 350.
That distance is the whole story. HughesNet's own FCC broadband labels list typical latency at 750 milliseconds on its satellite-only plans. Starlink's label says 25 to 50. Your signal is making a 44,000-mile round trip before anything happens on your screen. Web pages still load fine. Video calls, gaming, anything where you're going back and forth in real time, those fight you.
Latency isn't the reason I'd steer you off it for a parcel, though. Three other things are.
It has to be installed by them, at a fixed spot. Professional installation is mandatory on both and you cannot mount it yourself. Their terms rule out RVs, boats and anything mobile. What they don't require is a building: both allow a pole mount set in the ground, and HughesNet's own FAQ calls the roof-required idea a myth. So a bare parcel isn't automatically disqualified, which is the opposite of what most articles tell you. But a pole set in the ground is a permanent improvement, and if you're still paying toward the deed that's the same wall from a different direction. More on where that line sits further down.
It's a contract, usually. HughesNet requires a 12 or 24 month term depending on the plan, with a termination fee of up to $400 that steps down as you serve the term out. Viasat offers a month-to-month option on some plans with no termination fee at all, and on the committed plans charges $15 for every month you have left. On a parcel you visit six times a year, the committed version means paying year-round for a handful of weekends.
The data isn't what it sounds like. Plans advertise unlimited data and technically that's true. What you actually get is a fixed priority allotment each month, and once you're through it you drop to standard data, which HughesNet says may run slower during busy periods and publishes no floor speed for. No overage charges and no cutoff, which is genuinely better than a hard cap. On a video call the practical effect is still the same.
Low-orbit didn't just beat geostationary on speed. It removed the two things that made satellite impossible on raw land in the first place: a building to bolt it to, and a contract to sign.

Cellular: the cheap option worth testing first
If you can get two or three bars standing on the property, cellular is often the best value out there, and it's the first thing I'd test because testing costs you nothing.
A hotspot on a plan you already have will tell you in ten minutes whether this is viable. If it is, you've got options: a dedicated hotspot device, a carrier's home internet service where it's offered, or an external antenna to pull in a weaker signal.
Two honest warnings. Coverage maps lie, or at least they're optimistic in ways that matter at the edges. The only map that counts is your phone, standing on the parcel, on a normal day. And "unlimited" plans often slow down hard after a threshold, which you'll notice the first time you try to stream in the evening.
For anyone running an RV or a trailer out there, cellular is almost always the right starting point.
Fixed wireless: the best deal when you can get it
Fixed wireless means a local provider beams a signal from a tower to a small antenna on your property. Where it exists, it's frequently the best combination of speed and price on this list, and it's the option most people have never heard of because the national comparison sites barely cover it.
The catch is that it's genuinely local. These are small regional operators, not household names, and the only reliable way to find them is to ask people who are already out there: the county, the co-op, the folks at the feed store, your future neighbors. A search for "wireless internet provider" plus the county name turns up more than you'd expect.
It needs line of sight to the tower, so the same terrain math as satellite applies, just horizontally instead of straight up.
Fiber, cable, and DSL: mostly not your answer
I'll save you some time. If your parcel is raw and rural, wired service is probably not on the table, and here's the short version of why.
Fiber is excellent and occasionally reaches rural areas through co-op and grant-funded buildouts. Worth one phone call to the local electric co-op, because where it exists it beats everything. Cable rarely extends past subdivisions. DSL runs on phone lines that may not reach you, and where it does, speeds at the end of a long line can be genuinely unusable.
It's worth knowing where the federal buildout money actually landed, because that tells you what's coming and what isn't. Every state had to submit a BEAD final proposal assigning its eligible locations to a technology, and in several of the states we sell in, satellite took a share nobody would have predicted five years ago.
Share of BEAD-eligible locations assigned to satellite
Source: State BEAD final proposals, 2025 to 2026 · Figures as of Sep 2026
Read that as the honest answer to whether fiber is coming to your land. Oregon put it plainly in its own filing: 48,631 of 104,654 eligible locations assigned to satellite at about $550 apiece, against $9,421 a location for fiber. That gap is why the truck isn't coming down your road. It's also why satellite stopped being the consolation prize and became the plan.
You'll still see broadband over power lines listed as an option on older articles. Skip it. It never got real traction and it isn't a live choice for a rural buyer today.
Powering the thing you just bought
This is the part that gets skipped, and it's the part that bites off-grid buyers.
Internet equipment needs power, continuously, or it's a paperweight. The current Starlink dish is rated at 75 to 100 watts on average, which is 1.8 to 2.4 kilowatt-hours a day. That's a meaningful share of a modest solar setup before you've charged a phone or run a light, and it's more than the older hardware drew, so size from the current spec rather than from a guide written two years ago.
Practical ways people handle it: size the array for the load from the start, run the connection only during the hours you need it rather than 24/7, or lean on cellular, which sips power by comparison and runs off a battery bank without much thought.

If you're working out the power side, is solar worth it on rural land gets into the sizing, and the real pros and cons of off-grid living covers how these systems fit together once you're actually living with them. If you're still looking for the parcel itself, our off-grid land is filtered for exactly this kind of setup.
What you can install before the deed is in your name
Most of our buyers are on owner financing, which means they're using the land while they're still paying for it. That changes what you can put up.
Portable and removable gear is fine from the start: a dish on a tripod, a hotspot in the truck, an antenna clamped to an RV, a battery bank. Nothing permanent, nothing that needs a footing.
A permanent mast, a guyed tower, a trenched conduit run, or anything bolted to a foundation is a permanent improvement, and those wait until the deed transfers into your name. It's not a gotcha, it's just how a land contract works. What you can do with your land while you're still paying for it lays out where the line sits.
The good news is that the two options that work best on raw land are both portable by nature. You're not giving much up.
How to test before you commit
Half an hour on the property answers more than a week of research.
Stand on the parcel and check your phone. Note the bars and run a speed test, and do it in a few spots, because a rise or a tree line can change the answer fifty yards apart. Look straight up and take an unsentimental read on whether you've got open sky or a canopy. Call the local electric co-op and ask if they offer internet or know who does. Then ask a neighbor, because somebody within a mile has already solved this and will tell you exactly what works.
If you're shopping rather than already holding a deed, ask the seller. Any of our Land Specialists can tell you what buyers on nearby parcels ended up using, and that beats a coverage map every time.
Go claim your spot
Getting online out there is a solved problem now, which means the question worth asking isn't whether you can stay connected. It's where you want to be when you do. If that's somewhere past the end of the pavement, our off-grid land is filtered for exactly that.
The signal will reach you almost anywhere these days. What's harder to find is a place worth pointing a dish at.




